Leather Terms and Glossary

Alum Tanned: (Alum Tawed) A method of tanning involving aluminium salts and other ingredients. It is not stable in water and can revert back to rawhide. Used in bookbinding , laces, ornamental clothing and other applications. Generally a light yellow or white appearance.

American Bison: Bison leather can be stronger than traditional steer leather. Since Bison are generally range animals the leather can have more character while remaining supple and durable.

Aniline Dyed: Leather than has been colored using transparent dyes versus a pigment or opaque colorant. Aniline dyed finishes preserve the natural character and produce a deep, vibrant color.

Chrome Tanned: Leather that is tanned using chromium salts. It produces a pliable, soft, supple leather that is semi-waterproof. Used in many applications from shoes to purses. Generally has a grey core unless dyed through. Since the edges will not burnish, a different edge finish, paint or roll over is recommended.

Cow Hide: The hide from the mature female bovine that has produced a calf.

Cordovan: (Horse butt, What!) Cordovan leather has a durable characteristic finish with very fine pores. It is made from the firm, tight shell portion of the horse butt. Generally a very highly finished, more expensive, beautiful leather.

Drum Dying: The hides are immersed into a large drum, along with the dyes and other ingredients. This allows the dye to fully penetrate the fibers, producing a color that is all the way throughout the leather.

Flesh-Side: The inner or “ugly” side of the leather.

Full Grain: The original grain of the hide after the hair has been removed. No correcting, buffing, etc.

Grading: The ranking of the leather by either the producer or seller, highly subjective. They may use letters, numbers or some other form or ranking. In theory, it was similar to the grading we received in school, with an “A” grade having less than 10 percent of defects. However, many producers have switched to a simpler grading system of low, medium and high with their own names for the different levels.

Grain: The organic texture of the outside of the hide or skin. This includes the pores, wrinkles, and other characteristics.

Grain-Side: The outside or “pretty” side of the leather.

Heifer: A female bovine, under three years of age, that hasn’t birthed a calf.

Hide: The outer skin or covering from a mature or fully grown mammal such as horse, cattle, camel, elephant or other animal.

Leather: An animal skinned that has been tanned or preserved and dressed for use.

Liming: The removal of the hair from the hide to prepare it for the tanning process.

Skive: To reduce the thickness of leather by slicing or splitting into a thinner layer.

Split: A single layer that has been separated from the whole skin or hide. Usually resulting in two pieces, the top grain (outer) split and the flesh (inner) split.

Steer Hide: A hide from a castrated bull. The hide has a tight grain structure and is usually used for upholstery.

Tannery/Table Run (TR): Leathers that have not been graded and are cheaper to purchase and produce in bulk.

Vegetable Tanning (Veg-Tan): A tanning process where leather is made by soaking the animal hides in natural tannins found in organic material. The process takes longer and is more expensive, but produces robust high-quality leather that edge burnishes well.